Athens

Erechtheum, Acropolis, Athens

Side of Parthenon

Monday, April 23: Athens

Flew back to Athens at the crack of dawn and were met by Sophia and Bobis. We drove directly from the airport to the Acropolis. We climbed up the hill, and walked the sacred way to the Parthenon, which we walked around, admiring both it and the view of Athens from these heights. The Parthenon is much bigger than one imagines, and the approach to it is grander, and steeper, than I expected. Also saw my own favorite, the Erechtheum, with the female carytids holding up the roof of the portico.

Then I went to the Archeological Museum housed at the Acropolis while everyone else wandered around outside. There was a sculpture of a wonderful stalking dog, and also a great frieze of horsemen in a procession. There were mostly Archaic pieces (literally small pieces of works) from the first temple of Athena, pulled down in ancient times when the Parthenon was built.

The museum holds four of the original six carytids (those currently holding up the roof outside are copies). The two missing ones are residing elsewhere. One is being restored in Athens, and one is in the British Museum, along with the "Elgin Marbles." The Greeks are busily restoring the Acropolis and generally tidying things up for the 2004 Olympic games. Wouldn't it be nice if the British gave them their treasures back in time for the games?

The whole area was packed with people. It must be ghastly in the summer. I tried to hurry to catch our group so I wouldn't be guilty of making everyone wait for me. Hurrying was difficult due to the tidal flow of tourists, but I did get down to the meet-point before everyone actually boarded the bus.

Back to the hotel for check-in and a late lunch, then time for a rest. I definitely have a head cold. I've started sniffling as well as coughing.

We walked through the Plaka district for a guick view of shops and ruins, then to a taverna for dinner. Despite the fact there was to be live Greek music after dinner, and dinner did look good, I decided to skip everything except the Greek salad and leave early for a long night's rest. Walked back to the hotel with Ed, and found a little stand with cough drops and water for sale. Thus provided for I arrived back at the hotel for a much needed round of sleep.

Tuesday, April 24: National Archeological Museum

After going to bed at 10PM I slept until 6:30AM, then dozed for another 2 hours. We had breakfast and set out for the National Archeological Museum, with some views of downtown Athens on the way.

The museum has the treasures of Mycenae, including the golden covering of the two babies and "Agamemnon's" gold death mask. There are many grave stelae, and several great bronzes. My favorite is the horse and jockey. It is wonderfully detailed--you can see he is wearing spurs. There is also a great sculpture of Poseidon, and two late bronzes of young men.

I decided I like the treatment of animals even better than the depictions of people. Perhaps because the Greeks went for ideal forms when they were representing people, while the animals are rendered more naturally. I think the modern Greek relationship to animals is quite different than the Anglo-Saxon model--more casual and closer simultaneously. For instance, when we protested that we were given more than we could possibly eat, and so felt guilty for wasting food, Sophia told us not to worry, as the scraps were put out for the "strays." And there are a lot of stray animals everywhere in Greece, both cats and dogs. She said a cold chill went down her spine when I told her of the American method of dealing with strays. There are no dog catchers and pounds in Greece.

After lunch at the hotel I went for a walk through the Plaka with Ed, who needed to buy an additional suitcase to haul his treasures home. I bought a few presents, then we settled in a little cafe to watch the world go by. We ate some great ice cream, the smallest size they serve is two scoops. I had tiramisu and rum raisin. Then back to the hotel to rest before dinner.

I wasn't terribly hungry (not surprising after lunch and ice cream), which was just as well as we drove to Pireus for a fresh fish dinner. The restaurant was right on the waterfront, and the setting was quite beautiful. We dined al fresco, and it was all very atmospheric. Ed deboned the fish for me, but I did still encounter a couple of small bones. Each time my face would sort of freeze up and Ed would instruct me to "just remove the bone from your mouth." I ate half of what I can truly say was the best fish I ever had.

We then drove back through the beautiful night to our hotel. I will be sad to leave tomorrow.

Tower of the Winds, Plaka

Parthenon, Reclining Figure

Parthenon, Horse Head